For the last five years or so, Umi Falafel has enjoyed a happy monopoly on the Dublin falafel scene. Besides a few food stalls, it’s been the dominant falafel-centred eatery in the city, and its reasonably priced food has become a firm favourite for student lunches. But a newcomer to the city could finally rival Umi’s success – What the Falafel has quietly opened up on Stephens St, just a short walk away from College.
What the Falafel has decided to keep its atmosphere very casual: if you want to eat in, you’ll find a cosy space with comfortable bench-style seating, with wooden utensils and paper napkins sitting in tins on every table. The menu is simple with several falafel options, a collection of sides, salads and drinks.
I was greeted with a complimentary bottle of refreshing mint-infused water, and very friendly staff were more than willing to explain unfamiliar items on the menu. Advised to try the €10 meal deal, which comprises any falafel main, a side and any drink on the menu (bar their coffees), I agreed, and my choice of a pita with a goats cheese side and freshly squeezed orange juice quickly arrived.
Starting with the pita, I bit into what was essentially a layer of undressed lettuce and not much else. Persevering, however, I reached my first bite of falafel, and my initial disappointment changed to surprise: the falafel was really, really good. I find falafel can sometimes veer towards an impenetrable, golf-ball-like texture, dry and clinging to the palate, but this stuff, beyond its perfectly crispy crust, was moist and rich. Creamy baba ghanoush helped make the falafel even more satisfying.
Similar to the layer of plain lettuce at the top of the pita, the bottom of the bread was lined with a separate layer of charred, gooey aubergine. Though nice, the odd lack of mixing meant that the pita felt somewhat like a journey, as I proceeded by stages through all the ingredients, and I couldn’t help but feel that combining the ingredients, rather than isolating them, would create a more coherent dish.
The side I ordered was described as breaded goats cheese served on toasted bread, but the goats cheese that arrived was not ostensibly breaded, and the dish actually came with a generous portion of salad. The consistency of the goats cheese leaned slightly towards the consistency of halloumi, and the salty flavour perfectly contrasted with the fresh, crunchy salad and its parsley dressing.
What the Falafel is very close to being very good: the inconsistencies between the menu and the reality – though minor – give it a slightly unpolished feel, yet the food is satisfying and well-priced. Given the fact that it only opened officially today, however, I’m sure that it will quickly straighten out any initial blips and cater to the real need for more affordable food in Dublin.
