Stoneybatter feels like a microcosm of Dublin. A short walk through the main street and a meander down a couple of lanes will tell you everything you need to know about the city, past and present. Put more frankly, it’s a place that’s seen lots of gentrification over the last few years, but has somehow managed to maintain its village-like charm, and crucially, no small number of older, less-trendy, but very popular institutions. Atmospheric dark pubs that look like they haven’t been tampered with in decades lie alongside glitzy all-white cafes and craft shops dedicated to saving the bees. But somehow, far from creating tensions or even incongruity, the old and the new seem to happily coexist, at least for the time being, in a neighbourhood that has such a varied and cultural feel.
For the perfect day exploring Stoneybatter, I recommend a Saturday, as the weekly Stoneybatter Farmer’s Market at Pender’s Yard is not to be missed. It runs from 10am to 3pm, and I advise you get there early with an empty stomach. After you’ve mentally prepared yourself to fight crowds for some of the best pastries in town, enter into the little lane just off the bottom of Manor St and walk to the back of the long, narrow market. Here, behind the throngs of people, you will find Scéal Bakery at its weekly stand. While it does produce a large range of sourdough bread, you’ve really come for the sweeter treats. On my last visit I picked up a cruffin (a croissant-muffin hybrid, if you’re wondering) filled with an incredibly light black sesame and plum mousse. Scéal has really led the way in the Dublin pastry scene, and the bakery’s inventive creations have seen it gain huge popularity despite its lack of a permanent venue.
Once you’ve scoffed down your pastry, it’s time to take in a little more of what the rest of the market has to offer. Lining the left-hand side of the market is a wide selection of organic fruit and vegetables, and while the slightly higher prices mean you probably wouldn’t want to do your weekly shop here, it’s a great place to marvel at slightly unusual vegetables you definitely wouldn’t find in your local supermarket.
While you might’ve missed it when you came in, near Scéal you will find quite a different baking stand: Two Bytes. Founded and run entirely by Nikki Wong, an Irish-born Chinese software developer, it sells a small range of delicious Asian, vegan baked goods. Nikki steams her happy baos on the spot (a little smiley face is drawn onto each fluffy bun), and when I visited she had made her very own mooncakes to celebrate the advent of Mid-Autumn Festival. I picked up a tapioca byte, a square made up of tiny gelatinous tapioca pearls topped with desiccated coconut, and was delighted that it was nice and sticky but not too sweet.
Once you’ve torn yourself away from the gluttonous delights of the Farmers Market, it’s time to take a leisurely walk around the plethora of colourful independent shops that make Stoneybatter the cultural hub that it is. Just around the corner is Lilliput Press, one of Ireland’s most prominent independent publishers, and a look around their small bookshop will uncover an impressive selection of contemporary Irish talent. The venue is known for frequently holding literary events such as readings, short story competitions and book launches, and is definitely somewhere you’ll want to return.
Once you’ve had your literary fill, it’s time to pop into a shop unlike any other: Bí Urban. To find it on Manor St: look out for a sign that reads “Equality For All Pollinators”, and enter the very eclectic space within. Here you will find an assortment of wooden furniture, hand-knitted scarves and hats, honey, kitchenware, natural skincare and much, much more, all from local Irish designers. The cause under which they’re united? The bees. More specifically, the Lifeline Project, which aims to create a green corridor in north central Dublin that will support biodiversity. Everything on display is unique and well-curated, and the staff are genuine and passionate about the cause, making it a lovely place to look around.
At this point, you’re probably craving a coffee, and the only place you should be going if it’s your first visit to the the area is Love Supreme. Don’t let the all-white, almost LA-like aesthetic dissuade you. The atmosphere is warm and buzzy, the coffee is delicious, and if that’s not enough, they even have a dedicated sausage roll menu.
If you’re averse to fancy coffee and it’s a pint you’re after, The Glimmer Man is a must-visit. While I’m too young to know for sure, it smells as I imagine pubs used to, has ancient-looking consoles on which a few men play spider solitaire, and is decorated with the most incredible paraphernalia. Order a drink while you take it all in, and make sure you look up to catch Margaret Thatcher and Charlie Haughey lying in a bed hanging from the ceiling. To top it all off, a Vietnamese food truck, Vietnom, has moved into the smoking area and is receiving rave reviews.
Stoneybatter is an artsy, friendly neighbourhood that has retained a sense of independence in a city that is undergoing rapid commercial development. On your next free Saturday, take a wander around the vibrant area and enjoy some of the best of what Dublin has to offer.
