Hidden down a bend in Bow Lane, tucked away near Smithfield Square, lies the Japanese takeaway, Tokyo Kitchen. Situated in a tiny counter space, practically inside the neighbouring fishmongers Kish Fish, the little kiosk quietly opened up in April this year.
Though the location of Tokyo Kitchen puts it beyond the reach of heavy footfall, the takeaway has slowly but surely proved itself worthy of a detour. Relying not on a convenient city centre location, plentiful seating (it has none), or even claims to “authenticity” (I heard Chinese spoken behind the counter), Tokyo Kitchen trades on one thing, and one thing alone: the quality of its food.
It’s very likely that the proximity of the fishmongers is one of the main factors contributing to Tokyo Kitchen’s brilliant fare – after all, raw fish does not travel well – but the little shop has got a lot more going for it besides the freshness of its fish. In fact, despite the miniscule kitchen in which the two chefs squeeze past each other, Tokyo Kitchen boasts an enormous menu. While sushi takes centre stage, with a large variety of nigiri and norimaki (seaweed sushi rolls) on offer, there are plenty of noodle dishes and Japanese curries for those less inclined towards seafood, as well as several vegetarian options. Perhaps best of all, a small specials menu changes daily, depending on what’s been delivered to Kish Fish that morning. This specials menu, a testament to the place’s attention to quality fresh ingredients, is also noticeably cheaper than many of the permanent offerings.
To test the place, I stick to my favourites, and order one portion of salmon nigiri and a large soft-shell crab roll. At €4 for two pieces of salmon sushi, the price seems steep, but the nigiri, when it arrives, is proportionately large. This is both good and bad. While the generous portion is filling, it’s impossible to eat in one bite, as it should really be eaten. As a result, the rice – which is absolutely perfect, the grains being compressed but remaining distinct – drops everywhere as I bite the piece in two. This isn’t a problem when the rice is mushy and has been carelessly prepared, but to do their cooking justice, Tokyo Kitchen would be well advised to reduce the size and the price of the nigiri. Nonetheless I want more, it’s still fantastic sushi.
With my first bite of the soft-shell crab roll, I decide I’ll be returning. I’d watched the chef roll it but even then I wasn’t expecting it to taste as good as it does: ripe avocado lends the piece a creaminess that complements the crispy deep-fried crab, and any flavour that the latter has lost in the frying process is compensated for by the fishy punch of neon roe. At €13 this dish isn’t cheap but it’s more than a lunch in itself. My friend, who’s opted for chicken and shiitake gyoza, one of the daily specials (€5 for eight), assures me hers is just as good.
With winter looming, picnic lunches in Smithfield square will become less and less attractive. As a result Tokyo Kitchen, without a table or chair in sight, will pose logistical problems for anyone who doesn’t live nearby. If you have a car you’ll be fine, but my leftovers stank up half the Luas. While I’ll certainly be back, I can’t help but hope they find a more accommodating venue because it’s the best sushi I’ve had in Dublin.
