Bambino opened its doors this June in the heart of Dublin’s Creative Quarter, in a prime location just a stone’s throw from The Hairy Lemon. Inspired by New York City’s slice shop culture, Bambino claims to offer a contemporary twist on the American classic with a focus on ‘the dough, the ingredients, the technique’.
If you’ve been in town or on Instagram this year, you’re bound to have heard of Bambino. This
brand new edition to the Dublin food scene has taken social media by storm with clients queuing up round the bend just to get a taste. Restaurateurs Shane Windrim, who has worked in Pi and Little Forest and Nicolas DiMaio’s, the owner of award-winning Token’, new venture may have been a risky one, but the presence of their new establishment has been noted by locals and visitors alike.
For starters, Bambino successfully brings the stateside aesthetic home to Ireland. With its exposed brick walls, soda fountain and red tiling, the space has a cluttered intimacy that replicates the atmosphere of an authentic parlour. The experience is as interactive as can be: their ovens are in clear view and the slices are freshly garnished on the counter before your eyes. The space is kitted out with high stools, yet most patrons are on the move and opt for takeaway.
Dublin food prices have been on the incline as of late, with chicken fillet rolls and coffees being the main culprits, and Bambino is no exception. A slice of margherita will set you back €4, while additional toppings like fresh burrata can cost up to €6.50. If you’re looking to feed the family, full pies just surpass the €30 mark.
However, this shop is unrivalled in its value for money due to the sheer quality of their produce. My first bite was from their take on the standard pepperoni, the ‘Hot Pep’. With pickled jalapenos, pecorino and spiced Irish honey, this was the perfect slice and my favourite item on the menu. The attention given to their dough is apparent: the organic sourdough base is bouncy, but not rigid, and there isn’t a trace of sogginess to be found.
I next sampled the margherita, which was as good as the next, but noticeably greasier than the other options. I appreciate that few Dubliners are under any illusions that Bambino is a haven of health, but the volume of oil that seeped into my paper plate was significant.
I was recommended to give their popular combo of ‘Ricotta and Greens’ a go. This time, the positive qualities of their base were overshadowed by the thick layer of ricotta cheese spread over it. The sticky and mulchy texture was not improved by the few out-of-place, soggy greens that seemed more like an afterthought than a core component. A blast of acidity from the garnish of lemon zest was an odd addition, culminating in a disappointing taste that did not leave me wanting more. If you’re a veggie I would recommend trying their other plant-based options, of which there are plenty.
Despite my qualms about the spinach, the overall dining experience at Bambino is worth writing home about. It would be an impressive feat to find a slice shop to rival the cost and taste of Windrim and DiMaio’s offerings. So if you’re a cash-strapped student looking for a budget-friendly lunch or a regular wanderer of the bars of South William Street, this is the place to find unmatched authenticity and an attentive flair for flavour.
