Among the mix of the artsy Doc Martens crowd, the Y2K enthusiasts, the Lululemon sets and the Longchamp le pliages, you will find a group of people on campus dressed in large grey sweaters, baggy black pants, runners, and large blazers. Their hair is beautifully shiny and healthy but swept away into a massive statement hair clip. They always have a nice tote bag that looks like it is sustainable. It’s called Scandinavian fashion.
While Scandinavian fashion has always been around with the likes of Acne Jeans, H&M, and & Other Stories, its recent rise to popularity can largely be attributed to Scandinavian influencers. Matilda Djerf, the founder of a Swedish, non-seasonal, ready-to-wear brand Djerf Avenue, is probably the most illustrative of Scandinavian fashion. Djerf has become the face of Scandinavian fashion, or what I have started to call “Djerfism.” But what exactly is Djerfism?
A lot of adjectives come to mind. Frumpy. Baggy. Masculine. Minimalistic. Functional. Practical. Effortless. Somehow chic. Futuristic. Vibrant. My Swedish mother is, surprisingly, not keen. “It looks like all your good clothes are left in the wash basket and you’re wearing what’s still clean,” she said. The large comfy trainers, baggy pants, t-shirts, and oversized blazers are admittedly not for everyone. This is not the only element of Scandinavian fashion, however. There is another more fun and feminine side, with bright colours, flowy skirts, and bold prints and designs. Djerf’s instagram feed captures this perfectly, with large flower and butterfly clips, block accessories, high heeled boots, and colourful prints.
Scandinavian style presents a huge contrast to the fashion we saw in 2016, which predominantly featured high waisted tight pants and crop tops. From the bandage dresses and waist belts of the 2010s to the low rise jeans of the 00s, a lot of women’s fashion in recent decades has focused on being sexy. There is nothing wrong with wanting to be sexy, but there is definitely something liberating about fashion that is very clearly not intended for the admiration of men. It is fashion created by women for women.
Scandinavian fashion is also functional and comfy, which is what every Trinity student is really looking for as they run back and forth to lectures and tutorials, and to part time jobs, and then maybe to Flannery’s. Furthermore, it is inclusive. I have heard the criticisms before – “it only looks good on her because she’s pretty and skinny.” Nonsense. A quick look on Djerf Avenue, Djerf’s own fashion label, will reveal what an inclusive brand she runs, and how, in general, Scandinavian fashion works well on all shapes and sizes because its main focus is functionality and comfort over anything else.
These factors combined mean that Djerfism has become a craze of sorts. TikToks of friend groups making a self-aware mockery of the fact that they are all dressed exactly like Matilda Djerf and other Scandinavian influencers show that it has become its own fashion genre. Both the minimalistic and the more vibrant and bold ends of Scandinavian fashion speak volumes. The practicality and functionalism demonstrates a busy yet content person with many goals set out for the day ahead. This person is not too concerned with impressing men as she has so much going on in her life already. The feminine edge also reveals a friendly and fun side and gives the impression of a girl’s girl. I spot a Djerf enthusiast from a mile away and I immediately want to be her friend.
While I think that Scandinavian fashion has definitely turned into a subculture, it will likely evolve and develop its own trend cycles. Regardless, I believe it is here to stay because it has gained a cult following with a strong identity. Trip to Stockholm Fashion Week, anyone?
