The famed Dublin institution, the Porterhouse, reopened its doors as Tapped in early September, boasting a renovated interior and revamped concept.
With sustainability as the basis of its new ethos, Tapped is aiming to be the most extensive craft beer bar in Dublin 2. The bar is offering cocktails and wines on tap as well.
Aimed, in part, at students, considering its proximity to campus, the upgrade could have provided students with a haven amid the steep price of pints at the Pavilion and surrounding establishments. However, is this just a thinly veiled rebrand, destined to further gentrify Dublin’s inner city?
As you walk in, the white-walled interior immediately catches the eye, along with the row of taps lined up along the bar. After walking past the bar, the skeleton of the old Porterhouse comes to mind, with the sheer size of the venue – sporting many little nooks and crannies, ranging from high stools to bean bags – contrasts how the space felt before.
At first glance, Tapped seems to offer an ideal post-lecture hangout spot. At closer examination, however, the teal and red colour scheme and bright lights lend a sterile quality to the bar, one more akin to a hipster co-working space with its industrial design.
Spoiled for seating choice on a cloudy, late Wednesday afternoon, we finally settled on a high-stooled booth, which was more reminiscent of a train carriage than a cosy seating arrangement.
In the mood for a cocktail as a mid-week treat, we opted to test three from the extensive list of tapped mixed drinks, which includes a blend of classics and new concoctions. For a bar whose entire concept rests on the fluidity and speed associated with the tapping method – rather than on mixology – as well as taking into account the off-peak timing of our visit, the wait time for drinks was uncharacteristically long.
In terms of drinks, the safe bets were all on the menu, but we decided to take a gamble, leaving room for one classic, though. The margarita was an acceptable take at the classic cocktail, with a sizable pour of tequila. The “Saturn”, a gin-based cocktail with a crisp and fruity twist, although outside the norm, didn’t venture too far out of the conventional flavour range. The “Clover Club”, which combined gin with raspberry and citrus, surprised us with an overpowering floral taste and an excess of egg whites. This was not quite the surprise we were looking for when trying a new cocktail.
Next, we dabbled in some snacks from the food menu. The menu kept to the classics, adding little twists along the way, such as woodfired pizza with a wide array of toppings and different kinds of loaded fries.
While slightly uninspired, the menu visibly catered to the hankerings of students needing comfort food after a long day of college. Keeping it simple, we opted for the classic Buffalo fried chicken wings and the garlic cheese fries. As with the drinks, the food was nothing special. The blue cheese dip that accompanied the wings was best left on the side.
Nevertheless, the wings themselves and the fries were decent, despite the latter being sparse and leaving a strong aftertaste of garlic. Despite the passable quality of the food, the portion sizes are markedly small for the price point, with the wings and fries priced at €14 and €6.50, respectively.
Finally, to test the range of wines, which are also on tap behind the bar, we sampled the Stocco Pinot Grigio and a Nicolas Idiart Rosé. These tasted like we were already a couple of drinks too far in, with the unpleasant aftertaste of a cheap house party. We were left bemused, sincerely believing that a nicer selection could easily be found on the second-lowest shelf of Tesco. At €6.80 a glass, the appeal of the wine keg does not live up to its reality.
Overall, the novelty of Tapped wears thin when confronted with its steep price point, effectively pricing many students out, with even its beers reaching the €6 minimum threshold. Despite its proximity to an ideal target market of students looking to chill after a day of college, Tapped seems to miss the mark.
While the interiors would hint at a relaxed, young atmosphere, the prices are enough to send any student into a stressed panic. The idea of tapped cocktails, as well as an exercise in reducing waste, hints at a cost reduction, too. And yet, this saving doesn’t seem to be given to the students.
Tapped’s premium pricing doesn’t match its vibe, customer base or average quality food and drinks. My advice would be to ditch the premium pricing and slap on a few deals more suited to the students, and they will soon be tapping their cards for all the taps the bar has to offer.
