Going to mass every Sunday is a standard part of growing up in rural Ireland, and I was no different. Indeed, my local church – St. Joseph’s Church, Carrickmacross – happens to contain numerous stained-glass windows by world-renowned artist Harry Clarke. As long as I can remember, I was mesmerised by these windows which intricately portray Irish saints such as St. Ceara and St. Dymphna.
However, the significance of the artist went over my head when it was pointed out to me by my mother at age nine. It was only after being taken to the Hugh Lane Gallery as a child and seeing Harry Clarke’s masterpiece The Eve of St Agnes that I realised just how incredible his work was and how lucky I was to have grown up with it. Displayed in a darkened room, I was hypnotised not only by Clarke’s work but also by the rest of the gallery’s stained-glass collection which includes works by Evie Hone and Wilhelmina Geddes.
From that point on, the Hugh Lane Gallery became a place of familiarity to me and of whose collection I was to repeatedly frequent. However, I soon learned that the gallery seemed to be missing from many people’s itineraries when they come to Dublin, and that even some residents have not heard of this artistic gem. For this reason, I was compelled to write this article to convince you to visit this astounding collection (for free, I might add).
The Hugh Lane Gallery was founded in 1908 by Sir Hugh Lane, an Irish art dealer and collector. Originally located at 17 Harcourt Street, the gallery moved to its permanent residence in Parnell Square in 1933. It was and continues to be the first known modern art gallery in the world. Lane was an advocate for Irish art abroad as well as an avid collector of European art and this is reflected in the gallery’s impressive collection.
The gallery’s permanent collection hosts a large number of French Impressionist works by world renowned artists such as Monet, Manet, Renoir and Degas as well as a great number of works by Irish artists such as Mainie Jellett, Mary Swanzy and Sean Scully. Every year the gallery also brings contemporary artists into the limelight with exhibitions such as Bones in the Attic (2022) which brought together living Irish female artists in a powerful exhibit of womanhood, or Richard Gorman’s Living Through Paint(ing) (on view until August 20th), which is a refreshing display of colourful contemporary art.
However, it is the reconstructed studio of Francis Bacon that sets the Hugh Lane Gallery apart. Francis Bacon was born in County Dublin in 1909 and later went on to become one of the most famous artists of the British Isles due to his grotesque and poignant canvases exploring themes of religion, the human condition and the aftermath of World War II.
His London studio, where he worked from 1961 until his death in 1992, was meticulously moved to the Hugh Lane Gallery in 1998 following its donation from the artist’s heir, John Edwards. His studio, in all its chaotic glory, gives us a unique insight into the mind and artistic process of a master. It is an extraordinary display of curatorial and archaeological prowess that opens up a new way of thinking about the artistic method that is often cryptic and mysterious.
The Hugh Lane Gallery remains significant today, continuing the ethos of its founder, who believed in access to art rather than selling art to private collections where “it is lost”. This legacy is continued through the free admission to all exhibits in the Hugh Lane Gallery as well as the weekly public tours and talks.
The Hugh Lane Gallery cannot be missed regardless of whether you’re an art lover or not. From Impressionist to Abstract works, contemporary to concept art there is truly something for everyone. And if you needed more convincing, there is also a beautiful café and a wonderful shop to fuel your visit and ensure you leave with a memento of the immersive experience of visiting the Hugh Lane Gallery.
